Articles Blog

Loom Knit Ruana Style Free Spirit Topper (CC)

Loom Knit Ruana Style Free Spirit Topper (CC)


– [Kristen] Have
you wanted to make one of these beautiful Ruanas and even make arm holes in it, well Lion Brand has
this Free Spirit Topper out of Scarfie yarn,
and it’s just like a Ruana Top but it
also has arm holes. And today we’re gonna make
it for the Loom knitters. This is a popular needle pattern and today we’re going
to convert it for you. Stay tuned and we’ll
make it together. (jazz music) Welcome to GoodKnit
Kisses, we’re all about helping you stitch your
love and love your stitches. Today’s pattern in
brought to you by Lion Brand yarns
and GoodKnit Kisses. I’ve converted a
fantastic needle pattern that’s very popular
from Lion Brand into the loom for you today. So if you’ve ever
wanted to loom knit or you already know how
and really been wanting to make this, you are
going to be excited today. We’re going to be making
the Free Spirit Topper and the yarn really does the
color changing work for you. It looks beautiful,
and it’s two panels stitched together
in the back for that classic Ruana style design. And then they’ve also
got some arm holes in here with a little
slit on the side, so you can customize
it for yourself. Be sure and click on the
link in the description below to get the pattern. Go ahead and print that
off or have it near by and let’s jump in to
making this today. In today’s tutorial
we’ll be using a bulky number five weight yarn
from Lion Brand yarns. Scarfie in color mint silver. You’ll need four balls of
yarn, let’s get started. Alright, our loom that
we need is a 62 peg blue Knifty Knitter
loom or Knit UK loom. I’m only gonna use 53 stitches, you can work with
the original 59 from the converted pattern,
but I’m gonna go to 53. So you’re going to need
a couple stitch markers, and I’m marking the first
peg and the last peg, just so I go ahead
and have that on here. And then you’re gonna
want a couple of lockable stitch markers,
just set ’em aside cause those will be used later. And of course you
have your loom tool. The important thing to know is we need to work
with our yarn first and get this beginning
start of the right color, so that it gradates
and changes as we go. So I’ve got a couple
of balls here, and I’m gonna show you… See how this one over
here has, on the outside, a little bit more
of the gray showing, I’m gonna go with the main
color I wanna show first which is this green and so I’m
gonna pull off the ball band, just set that aside, and
I’m gonna go through here and find where the start is. And you see all this
extra yarn here, alright so see how it’s gray. I’m gonna be setting
aside most all of this and start with the
most solid color of the green. Okay, so I want to get the part that has the most green on
it, but not completely solid. So if you look at this, it’s
got a little bit of a hazy of a gray on it. It may be harder to see
but as I pull through here, you’ll notice that it
becomes darker and darker, and you can probably see
that coming through now. Now in front of you is
gonna be most critical. I’m gonna go to where
it’s just a tiny bit of the gray showing
and then kinda mark where that starts
becoming less and less. Okay, so I’ve got it
marked about here. Now I’m just gonna kinda
pinch and hold this, and measure like an arm’s
length, about 36 inches. And I wanna start kind of
half way at that point here, so this is where I’m
actually going to start my slip knot. I’m gonna take my scissors and we’re going to start
with our slip knot here, and then by the time
we get our cast on it’s going to be a
nice solid color. Alright, let’s begin
on the cast on. To make the true cable cast on, begin with a slip knot and
place it on the first stitch. Let me make sure I get that
nice and tight in there. Pull her tail through, and then with the
working yarn you’re gonna move it in between the stitches
that you want to go toward. So we’re gonna go between the
first and the second stitch and come around to the top, and we’re going to go up
through that bottom loop and pull downward and make a new loop. And when we make that loop,
we’re going to pick it up and flip it and place
it on the next stitch. And then move that
working yarn between and get it nice and tight there. And this will imitate a
needle cast on for a cable. I like it for this
particular pattern. So we’re gonna go around the
back of that second stitch and go into the front and
we’re gonna pull downward and do exact same thing. Make a loop, pick
it up, flip it, pull it tight and get
that yarn to the back. Continue doing that until
you get to your last stitch. You’re gonna cast on
53, pause your video and I’ll see you soon. Now that you cast on, we’re going to work in
a seed stitch pattern, and this is row one so all
the odd rows will be the same. We’ll be working right to left. We’re going to work
knit, purl, knit, purl all the way to the end. We’ll have one stitch left and
this last one will be knit. I’m gonna work in the
U-Wrap knit stitch. I’m gonna go around
the back of peg one, and we’re gonna lift up and
over for that first stitch. The next one is gonna be purl, so we’re gonna put the working
yarn down below peg two, and scoop up a loop like this, take off the old loop
and put the new one on. And you can do this loosely,
it doesn’t have to be tight. And then we’re going to put
the yarn above the next loop and go around the
back which makes a U, this right here here is that
U, and lift up and over. Okay, so that is this stitch. We’re gonna work in that
pattern and then purl next, so knit, purl, knit,
purl all the way across. The last one at the
end will be knit. On row two, going the way back, you’re just going to be
working purl, knit, purl, knit all the way to the end and then your last
stitch will be purl. Alright, I worked the
last stitch of row one, and now I’m gonna
work on row two. So from left to right is
always gonna start with the purl stitch here. So we’re going to put that yarn underneath that first
stitch, lift up, lift the old one off
put the new one on, and then work the U knit
stitch on the next stitch. So the last one in
all your even rows is going to be purl,
you’ll finish up with that. So you’re gonna work these
stitches back and forth. When you get to the
beginning of row one, you’ll know that
you’ve done two rows. We wanna work 36 rows
for this or four inches. It will be very stretched
out and it’ll be hard to measure and you might think you only have two
inches or three inches, but you may want to
put some scrap yarn on here as a
provisional bind off. Kind of like this, you’ll
wanna put some scrap yarn on and take it off, and
then you can make sure your stitches are all stretched how they would normally be,
and then measure your work. So 36 stitches… I mean, sorry, 36 rows
is what I would do. Go ahead with that
and pause your video, I’ll meet you back up when we’re
ready for the next section. Alright, so we
are ready to begin with our seed stitch boarders. You’re gonna move in the
outside stitch markers in to the eighth stitch. So we’re gonna move
one, two, three, four five, six, seven, eight,
and lift that off. And then we’re gonna
take this one off. Okay, and then now
you’re going to work the first eight stitches
the same seed stitch, and then you’ll work in a
U-Wrap stitch, like that, all the way around until
the last eight stitches. So I’ve already moved
the marker inward. Now on a row one, you
work all the way down here and when you get to that
first stitch marker, you’ll actually start your
seed stitch on a purl stitch and then work all
the way to the end. And then when you begin,
you’ll start on a purl stitch and work all the way
down, and when you get to this first marker
here, you will start by knitting
this first stitch, and then that way all the
seed stitch will line up with the way that you’ve
been doing it before. So again, start this row
one with a knit stitch and then a purl, and repeat. And then on this stitch
that’s the last stitch of you’re seed stitch,
and everything in between this marker and this
marker is all Stockinette. So it will all be U wrap stitch. Okay, so work on rows
one and two repeated until you have reached 31 inches and we’ll meet back
up for that point. See you soon. Alright, let’s take
a knitting break and we’re going to do
a provisional bind off. I wanna show you how
to actually do this. It is used to hold your
stitches temporarily, but also can be used
for accurate measuring. So I’m just gonna take
a scrap piece of yarn, contrasting color smooth yarn, and use my loom tool
and just pull it right through these stitches. Now you can also use a
wide eyed tapestry needle, that’s okay too. I’m just doing the
ones on the end here, and I’m going about
eight stitches in. You can go more if you need,
but this is very stretched out. This Stockinette
stitch in here is much wider on here
than it is down here, but also the rows are very stacked together and
they need to be stretched out a bit to get a real
accurate measurement. So if you notice up
here, it’s wider, it’s more stretched
out and down here, the tension has ease and this is really what it’s
going to look like. So all you do, is you put
your stitches through here and then you just start
taking them off of the loom. There’s no worry
about them dropping and you have to fix
’em or anything. So once you do that, and
you pull your stitches off, then you can take
it out and you can kinda stretch out your work and
put it through more of them. Stretch this down a
little bit to get it closer to where
it’s suppose to be, and then you can accurately
measure your work. So, when you get to
the desired length, you’re ready to put
it back on the loom, and we just come back
up here and we take our holder that we’re using, and this one I’ve
already got on here, and I’m just gonna kinda
pull this one through and make little bunny
ears, like this, for my fingers and then I just
pull it right on to the loom. I usually put my
finger at the back and it helps me get
that stitch through, and then I just pull
through and do the next one. Okay, so after you
measure your project, pause your video and
I’ll meet you back for the next section. For this one we need 31
inches, see you soon. We’ve come to 31 inches
and we need to start our row one or an odd row. And I need to cast on
before we get started, and what this is going
to do is it’s going to give us an extra stitch here, to seem against when I have… This is my left half here, and you’re working on
your right half right now, but I just want you to see how this increase is going to look. And as you see I have a
stitch marker in here, so we’ll be putting a
stitch marker on after. But I wanna show you how
you can also mark this, so that you can make
sure your panels have the same amount of
rows and you can count them. I put in a scrap
piece of yarn here, and I’ll show you where
I’m putting it on here. You can use this
scrap piece of yarn or you can use a
locking stitch marker. So I’m just gonna go in between one of these stitches over here. And this is just a
bar between them, and I’ll just place
my stitch marker on and lock that up. And then it’s just
gonna drop down in my loom here and then rest. And so I can pull this out later and it will show
me where that is because I’m gonna show
you in the next segment, how to cast on for
the left panels. So you’re gonna
wanna pay attention and come back to this later. Alright, let’s make our increase and we’re gonna do,
as we did before with the true cable cast on, we’re going around the
back of this last stitch and just go through
with our loom hook, and pull through a new
loop, flip it, and place it, and then pull that yarn to the
back, and we have increased. Now it will be on the other
end for the left side panel. Now we’re going to start
working on our row one or odd row, but in this case
we’re going to start with a purl stitch, so you’re
gonna have to kinda change your frame
of mind on this. This starts with a purl
because that second stitch is going to be knit just
as we had done it before. So the position of the pegs
is still gonna be the same. This is still gonna
be a knit stitch here, it’s just that we’re adding on cause we wanna continue
in the same patterning. So you’re gonna continue,
this is purl, knit, purl, knit all the way down
until your marker, and then do the
Stockinette just as before, and end just as before. You’re gonna continue working
on this for the right panel until you reach 50 inches. Alright, pause your video
and come back and… When you see me come back, if you’re working on
the right side panel, you can skip the left
side increase section and you’ll have to
come back to it later, and I will meet you back
at the right side panel, when you are ready for the last seed stitch boarder
of 50 inches. See you soon. Alright, we want to do
a true cable cast on in the opposite direction. This is the left half
and you will have worked all the way to the
end of that row and now you’re adding on. So if you have been
counting from your right side panel stitches, you’re gonna see
where that original, that stitch marker was
if you’re counting up how many rows you need. So now we’re going to
put our yarn between the last peg and the
one we’re gonna go to. Put the yarn up top,
as we do before, go up through the bottom
of that stitch here, pull downward, alright, and then we’re just
going to flip it. So I’m gonna move my yarn
back here out of the way, flip it, and then pull on that. Alright, you don’t wanna
make it too loose here. It doesn’t need
to be super loose, you’re gonna have a
nice firm edge anyway. So now we’re ready to begin, and normally we start
this row with a purl, and you’re gonna have to change your frame of mindset here again because you’re going to be
knitting this stitch instead. So we’re going to knit
one, and then this first, actually the second stitch
now is going to be purl. So it’s just as it was before, it’s just set up a
little different. So when you… When you’re on the
other end though, you’ll be doing it
as you normally do. You’ll still start
off that other row, all the odd rows
with a knit stitch. So just continue on until
you get to your 50 inches, and I’ll meet you back
up for the finishing of the seed stitch boarder. See you soon. Alright, we’re coming
to a stopping place where we need to
switch out our yarn. Now on my panel I’ve got this
beautiful, color changing yarn and I’m ready to move on
to what looks like to be the next part for the green
to start coming back in. It’s about right here, you
can see it coming into color. So, it is really good to see
this first cast on tail. This tail, the reason
why I left it so long is so I can start
matching it up to where it’s gonna come
out of the new ball. One way to know where
to stop your tail here is to come along and find where
the more solid color starts, and now we’re gonna line it up
with this original tail here. So here’s my original tail, and where I get
this beginning yarn. Alright so this is where we want the yarn to start
being more solid, so I’m gonna pull it in until
it closely resembles that. Okay, and that is getting
closer and getting closer. And when we finally get to where it looks the same or
similar, let’s pull it back. So it’s about right here. Okay, so it’s about right here and then I want to
make a tail that looks as long as this one and
I’m gonna pull it back about that long, up
to the front here. Okay, so this has got
more of the solid color. So about right here
is where I’m going to start adding the color in, so I’m gonna put in
a loose knot here. Okay, so this is where it’s
going to add the color in. So I’ve marked it. Okay, and now I can go
ahead and clip this off, and I can get rid of the
ball that I was using. And now I wanna go find the
beginning of this other ball. So we’re gonna take
off this ball band, and look at the outside here and start finding our
way to match this. You’re gonna do the same exact
thing and mark your spot, and when we come
back we’ll add it in. See you soon. Once you’ve knit up to that
part where the loose knot was, undo your knot and go
ahead and knit it in there. And then we’re gonna
set in our next stitch and we just go ahead and work
that, and you can continue on. So you’ll just weave in
these tails afterward, and you can also put
in just a loose… Not a loose knot but just
kinda tie this part loosely, and know that that’s
where you’ll undo it and weave in your tails
later with a tapestry needle. Alright, continue on in
your project until you reach 50 inches and use the
provisional bind off to help you measure that,
and I’ll meet you back up for the seed stitch. See you soon. I have just put this
back on the loom, where I had taken my
provisional bind off and I could measure all the way to the beginning edge 50 inches, and you can also take off
this stitch marker here, and the one at the end. And once you get those off,
you can begin your seed stitch and you just will be making this seed stitch in the
middle here as well. Just remember, on
the right side panel that we’re working now, you’ve
got an extra stitch cast on, you’re gonna
accommodate for that. And when you do the
left side panel, you’re gonna have
the extra stitch at the back here instead. Alright, go ahead and
work the same amount rows you did on the beginning here. You’re working four more inches. And I may note or
you can recount them, and I’m gonna make sure I
do the same amount rows. Mine, I got 36. Alright, so I’ll
meet you back up at the end of your four inches. See you soon. So we’re ready to bind off which is taking it off
of the loom, of course. And we’re going to
work it “in pattern”. Binding off in pattern
means whatever the next stitch is that you’re
suppose to be doing if you continued on the row, that’s what you’re
gonna work first. So in this case for
my right side panel, I’m gonna start with
the purl stitch. So bring my yarn around, just as I would to
normally start this row. And so I work the first stitch and then I work
the second stitch. So the second stitch in
this case is the knit. Then I’m gonna take
the second stitch and move it on to the first, and lift it up and
over to bind that off. And then I’m gonna move it down, and now this becomes
my first stitch again. The next thing I do is
use the next pattern that happens, which
is a purl stitch. So I would normally
purl on this stitch, and so I’m just gonna do that and then I move it over
to that first stitch, and I lift up and over. And if you see I’m
keeping it kind of loose, and I’m not pulling it
super tight like this. I’m letting it kinda hang
back behind this peg here. So we’re gonna lift up and
over and then I move this. I’m not continuing
to tighten here because I want it to
be nice and loose. It doesn’t need to be too tight. If it’s too tight then
it’ll draw in your panel. So that’s all you do. You continue doing
that in pattern. If you do a basic bind off
with it just all knit stitches, then it won’t flow as nicely. If you’re working on
the left side panel, all you do is the opposite. You don’t have this extra
stitch on the front here, so you actually start
with a knit stitch first. When you get to the end, just pull that last
stitch on through and I’ll show you an ending
on that in just a moment. So, I’ll see you soon
for that last stitch. For the last stitch,
we just work that and move it over as usual, and lift the bottom up and over. And now this one, we’ll
just go ahead and cut it, cut our tail and just
pull it on through. So pull that tail on through and pull it off the
loom, and you’re ready. So now you can just… I’m gonna lightly
steam block this and get ready to
seam it together. So you’re gonna go ahead
and make your second panel, and weave in all your ends, then go ahead and
you can block it out a little bit if needed, and
we will sow it up together. So you’re gonna need a
wide eyed tapestry needle, and a little extra yarn. See you soon. We’re gonna start
seaming this together and this is what it looks
like with both panels running length wise here. Your bound off
edge is down here, and your cast on
edge is down here. So where the cast on edge is,
that’s gonna be your fronts. This’ll be the right
side because this is how your body would be facing. The person is
facing out this way, so this is the right
half of the body, and this is the left
half of the body. And then this is
going to be open here, and then right where
this is it’s going to be where the seam
starts in the back and goes all the way to the
bound off or cast off edge. So this is where
those markers are. Just you sow this part. But if you want to
make the arm holes… So I’ll show you how
to do that in a moment. Let’s go ahead and sow
this part right now. Okay, so I’m just gonna use
a little bit lighter yarn, so you can see it. I’m gonna do it in a
very easy kinda way. The markers are just gonna
show you where you can start. You don’t have to put a
stitch in that hole just yet, and I’m gonna leave the
tail sticking out so that can be fixed later. So I’m gonna come up
through this hole here. I’ve got about two
and a half yards of yarn here. Alright, so I’m coming
up through the hole and I can sow in this tail later, but I wanna just show you how I’m gonna come in through here. So I’m gonna go up through
this little purl bump here. Okay, then I’m gonna
zig zag to the left and go to the first purl bump
above where this marker is. So I see this purl
bump right here, and pull all my yarn through. And I’m gonna go zig zag
to the right side again, and find my next purl
bump, and go through and then zig zag to the left, and go through the
next purl bump. Now you can seam
it how you like, this is just how I’m doing it
for this particular pattern. And we’ll do one more, and I’ll
show you the magic in this. So I’ll go through
this purl bump, and then this set on this side. So you see it has this
sort of lacing up, okay and now what I do
is I’m gonna pull on this and you can see how it just
kinda disappears inside. And if I work with the
yarn that is matching this, then it’s going to fade away. You can use darker yarn here,
and then start using the lighter yarn up here, and
then your extra tails, just weave those in, and
you’ll have a nice seam right up here. And then when you’re done, you can take off your
stitch markers here. Alright, I’ve been
using the same yarn and even though it is a
slightly lighter color it’s not noticeable,
it really isn’t. So I just wanna show you,
kinda coming to the end, make sure you’re
pulling on this, make sure that this
isn’t squished in. You’re not pulling too tight, so make sure these are even. And then as you get
down to the end, if it’s a little bit too long
on one side than another. You could go through two of
the bumps at the same time, and then go over to
the one over here. So, if I needed to make this
one a little bit shorter, then I could go
through these two first and then zig zag over
to this other side. And so this is what I’m doing. And so mine are pretty even. So, I just keep
going on to the end and do the tail over there… Weave in that tail. And then we will go
over to the arm holes. I just wanted to show
you the finishing up on this one and those extra tips. See you in a moment. Alright, now we’ve
got this part sown. You’re going to fold it in half, and this is if you’re gonna make the topper with the arm holes. So from the part where
it’s folded in half, you’re gonna measure right
here down on each side, measure to nine inches, okay. So that nine inches,
you’re gonna place like a little stitch
marker or something. And then you’re going to… And you can actually
place it through the two stitches nine
inches down from here, nine inches down from here
and it’s folded in half. And then from the
bottom, this cast on edge and the bind off
edge, both of them, you’re gonna measure up eight. So you’re only actually
sowing together this portion right here. So on this side, you’re
sowing together this portion which is actually sowing
this at the same time. And on this side
you’re sowing this one. So you’re only doing two things. So I’ll show you over here. Now I just placed this
together and folded it in half, and I actually marked where
that halfway point was. And then I measure
up eight inches, and then I measure
down here nine inches. And actually on mine I gave
it another one inch allowance, and you can use a top
of your own or something to see how big you want
your arm holes to be made, and you can make this area
a little bit more generous. So you’re gonna do the same
thing that you did before. Once you’ve marked these,
you can go ahead and put a needle through
the two stitches, to kinda mark it, and you can lay ’em
out side by side, just as we did that last one, and start sowing in
the way you did before. Start picking up those bumps,
leave a nice little tail, and then come on the other side and pick up that outward bump, and then continue
working on through and then weave in your
tails when you’re done, and repeat on the other side. And I’ll see you soon and
we’ll look at the final result. Well what did you think? Please be sure and
comment down below, and tag us on social
media with a picture of your Free Spirit Topper. We’d love to see it. (jazz music) Thanks for joining us today, where we help you
stitch your love and love your stitches. See you again soon.

38 thoughts on “Loom Knit Ruana Style Free Spirit Topper (CC)”

  1. I love this I have one like this that I bought at a store. it is awesome to when there is a little chill in the air. Can’t wait to make this when I get a few things out of the way. Thank you for making this.

  2. Is there a similar Lion Brand yarn I could use in place of Scarfie? I would prefer to work with a solid color or self striping. Thank you for posting the loom knit version. I look forward to making the project.

  3. That is beautiful! I will be attempting to make this, just need to buy tne right yarn for the job. I have loads of yarn, but never the right one lol

  4. Hi Kristine, thank so much for all your patterns and tutorials. I have a question. I will be using a different loom and yarn. It seems to me , from the schematic, that one of the front panels is 27 inches long and the other front panel is 31 inches. Is that right? I’m having a hard visualizing how that would work.Thanks again,Geri

  5. I really like the idea of this project. I’m really hoping I can do it soon I just started to loom knit. I taught myself by watching videos. I would love if you could put basic tutorials explaining the definitions to the terminology you’re using as well as the techniques. Several of the videos I watched to teach myself were in Japanese because of this I’m not familiar with the techniques. So far i have knitted a pair of socks and two beanies. I would love to make this for the winter to match my other projects

  6. I’m just getting into loom knitting so I’m very happy to find video tutorials for this hobby! Thank you

  7. I have a ?. Is the 51 inches separate from the 31 inches part? Or should it be a Total 51 inches? Which would make it 20 inches more?

  8. Absolutely love this! Have my yarn, my loom and am almost ready to start looming BUT I can't print the pattern!!! I would have to print on 14 pages which I don't mind but many of the lines overlap……has anyone had this problem. I'm pretty computer savvy but I'm stymied.

  9. I am so excited that you made this pattern on the loom! I had found a similar needle knitting pattern and was going to try and convert it, but now I don't have to. Can't wait to try it 😊

  10. Youve taught me how to make so maky lovely pieces! And id love to make this one too! Just a question you mentioned the seed stitch is 36rows =4inches. What about the next parts?

  11. I have just started attempting to make this, but was wondering if I didnt add the extra cast on stitch after 31” would that stop the v neck on the back of the garment. I really love this top but I’m not keen on the v neck at the backs prefer it all the way up to my shoulders. Many thanks

  12. What gauge and what loom? A bit fast, did u say, 31” total and then increase 1 st each end to 51”. I really like your projects but without a pattern it is difficult to get what you are saying. Do u have pattern for this? Why are u increasing 1 stitch and do u decrease it before other side?

  13. Am sure you could use any color yarn for this project, but, the color you used is absolutely gorgeous! Just wish it didn't cost so much. Hope I can find it for a cheap price, soon!!! Thank you for sharing your techniques.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *