Articles Blog

Tacoma Bestop Supertop Soft Bed Topper (2005-2020) Review & Install

Tacoma Bestop Supertop Soft Bed Topper (2005-2020) Review & Install

It’s Joe from Extreme Terrain. In this video, we’re gonna be going over the
Bestop Supertop Bed Topper fitting all ’05 and newer Tacomas. Now, this is gonna be the perfect option for
the Tacoma owner that’s looking to basically protect the stuff in the bed from the elements
with a Tonneau cover, but at the same time, they’re looking for something that has a little
bit more utility basically vertically, allowing you to fit something a little bit taller than
what the standard Tonneau cover is going to allow you to fit back there. So, what do we have going on here with the
bed topper? First things first, let’s dive into what this
thing is gonna be made out of, and that is gonna be Bestop’s legendary heavy-duty black
diamond fabric. It’s UV and mildew resistant. So this thing is not gonna smell after a couple
of rainstorms. It’s also gonna keep that nice black coloring
to it that looks right at home on the back of the Tacoma, perfectly matching the black
accents that are already there. This stuff is really, really high-quality. In fact, Bestop even manufactures the OEM
soft tops for the Jeep, Wrangler, and some really good stuff coming out with those. The windows on this thing are a little bit
tinted, definitely not dark enough to keep anyone from seeing into the bed of your truck. If you’re after security, this is gonna be
a little bit too light. However, they did do a good job of cutting
out a little bit of that sunlight, making sure it stays nice and cool back there and
basically adding a sleek blackout sort of look to the bed topper, which I personally
really like. The windows also have a little bit of functionality
built in. They’re completely removable. This one in the back rolls up as well. If that’s what you’re after, a little bit
of a choice there. But the side ones all they do zip on the side,
they pull right out, and that gives you a little bit more of an open-air look. This kit also includes a third brake light. It’s tough to see behind that tint right there,
but it is there. If you’re looking to keep that, absolutely
can. There’s one included in the kit. One thing I do wanna make a quick note of
is there is not a specific place to plug that in. It does not plug-and-play just some open-ended
pigtails on the end. So, bring your electrical supplies to get
that hooked up and running. This is held up by a corrosion-resistant black
powder-coated frame, which is really easy to manipulate, and it makes folding this thing
up and down really, really easy. Now, speaking about folding this up and down,
if you do need to put something even taller in the bed of your truck, it is really easy
to get this thing completely compacted up by the bulkhead, or you can completely remove
this and just leave the rails on the bed of your truck to make sure there’s no interference
whatsoever. So this is gonna be a great option if you’re
looking to keep a little bit tall of an item out of the rain, out of the elements, out
of the snow. And if you need to put something taller in
the bed of your truck, again, this pops right off, allowing you to do so. Now, one thing I have to say about this it’s
going to come to security. This is very thick vinyl, very thick stuff,
high-quality materials used here. However, it is only gonna take the standard
pocket knife to get through this thing. So if you plan on carrying anything of value
in the bed of your truck frequently, I would recommend some of the hard tri fold Tonneau
cover options we have on the site. Hinged Tonneau cover options, those are gonna
be a little bit more secure than this thing. But if you’re looking to keep stuff out of
the elements and you’re looking to use that extra height that something like this will
give you, this is a great option. Pricing here is gonna come in right around
750 bucks, which sort of puts it on the next level of Tonneau cover. This isn’t gonna be your standard tri fold
Tonneau cover option. It’s gonna give you a little bit more functionality
than that. And if you’re looking to utilize that extra
height, this is definitely money well spent. Bestop even throws in a five-year limited
warranty. Before we move on to the install, one thing
I wanna make a quick note about, there are two versions of this available, one for the
five-foot bed, which is what we’re working with today, and there’s one for the six-foot
bed as well. The install isn’t that different. You’re definitely gonna get a good idea of
how this installs on your Tacoma in just a second here. The install is gonna be really easy. I’m gonna give it a two out of three wrenches
on our difficulty meter. It should take you no longer than two hours. There’s no drilling required. However, there are some self-tapping screws
to get that third brake light installed, but they’re only going into the frame of the bed
topper. So without any further ado, let me show you
what tools you’ll need and how it’s done. Tools I use for this install will include
the electric ratchet, the drill with the Phillips head bit, utility knife, my pocketknife, small
extension, wire cutters, 13-millimeter socket, 11-millimeter socket, and for the wiring of
the third brake light, you’ll need some quick disconnects, spade connectors, male and female,
some extra wiring and some wire crimpers and wire strippers. I figured I’d lay this out for you guys. It can be a little bit confusing. There are a lot of different metal poles in
the kit here. So, this is where we’re gonna start. This is the rail set up how it’s going to
lay. You can see we have two front ones, two longer
ones for the rear, and then in the middle here, we basically have that slotted bracket
that’s gonna hold those two together. At the end, we have those two basically corners
right before you get to the tailgate. That’s where we’re gonna start. They bolt right down to that rear rail. We’re gonna grab our 7/16 socket and a small
extension just to make things a little bit easier, and we’re gonna bolt that down with
the cap nut. Now, before we do that, there are two versions
of these. You can see this one has a shallower tab right
there. This is for everything before 2015. So, we’re not gonna use those. Our truck is a ’16. We could put those aside. Everything including 2015 and newer than that,
they’re gonna use these with a higher tab. So, all we’re gonna do [inaudible 00:05:24]
come on there like that. Throw down a flat washer and then the nut. And we can do that for both sides. The next thing we’re gonna work on is conjoining
the two rails together. Now, in order to do that, we’re gonna need
this bracket here. Obviously, it’s just gonna go over those studs
like so. You push the two rails together, and that
just slides over like that. Before you bolt it down though, one thing
you wanna make sure makes its way in are these little pins, and they’re just gonna drop in
from the side like that. This big slot is gonna get the longer pin
with the larger washer, and this slot at the back here, this is gonna get the shorter pin
with the medium washer. And to lock those in place, we’re just gonna
throw our cotter pin in there. And then we could bolt that down as well. Now we’re gonna do the same thing for the
other side. Don’t forget to put your pins in first. Now we can put the rails together and thread
on those cap nuts. So the next thing we’re gonna do is we’re
gonna grab that rail, flip it over so we’re looking at the underside here. We’re gonna grab this foam weather stripping
in the kit, and we’re just going to apply this along the underside. One thing I do wanna note is we’re gonna do
a double layer on this sort of bend near the tailgate just to make sure that gets a nice
seal. That’s what Bestop recommends in the instructions. And then at the end, we can just take the
knife and trim that to size. And we’re gonna do the same exact thing over
on the other side as well. So next step, we can go ahead and take those
rails. We’re basically just gonna put them alongside
of our bed. A couple of things to note here, you can see
there’s like a little bit of an accent on the top of this. We’re gonna match the inside edge of that
with the inside edge of the rail just like that. And then this leading-edge here, this is gonna
meet up with basically the front of the bulkhead basically where the bed is going to end. So we’re gonna slide that forward, match that
up, and make sure at the same time, it’s with that accent on top of the bed. And now we’re gonna clamp it down. Now, in order to insert our clamp, we’re gonna
use this factory rail here on the inside. If you pop off that plastic cover, that’ll
open up the end of it. And then we can just slide in the clamp like
so. Down here on the other side, we’re gonna do
the same thing. We’re gonna pop off that plastic cover and
grab a clamp, and that need some extra slack. And that is gonna slide in the same way. Now, positioning for these clamps, what you
wanna do is put that plastic cap back on then slide that out as far as it’ll go, right up
snug alongside that, and then you can tighten down the bolt with a 13-millimeter socket
after you double-check the positioning. I have to admit this clamp did move it inward
a little bit only a couple millimeters. I don’t think that’s that big of a deal. And we’re gonna do the same thing at the other
end as well, and then we could jump to the other side and repeat that whole process. So now we’re gonna repeat that whole process. Over here on the other side, we’re gonna start
by taking off that plastic cap, and then we can slide our clamp in, [inaudible 00:11:56]
back on. And now we’re up at the front. We’re gonna repeat that process again. So now we’re actually gonna start on the bow
assembly for our supertopper. Now, a couple of things to go over here, these
are the front rails. You can see they have some snaps on the bottom. Also, you wanna make sure before you do anything
with these that you slide on these tie-downs. It’s just an elastic strap with a little plastic
tab at the end. Those need to go on first before you attach
them to the brackets. Also, these two, they’re just gonna slide
together like so. Then you can pick this whole thing up, and
we’re gonna go to the brackets in the front and get these on the pins. So what we can do now to get this installed
is you can kind of lay this down against the rear glass, and what we’re gonna focus on
is the larger of the two pins. I went ahead and pull out the cotter pin already. We’re gonna follow that up by installing a
larger fender washer. That’s gonna go around like that. Now we can take our bow. That’s gonna go on next. And then we can take the smaller washer. That’s gonna go on the very end, and then
we can reinstall our cotter pin and do the same thing for the other side. And out comes the cotter pin, large washer
followed up by the bow, small washer, and reinstall pin. The rear bow assembly is gonna be a similar
process. So you can see how I have that laid out right
here. We do have to install a couple more tie-down
straps. You wanna make sure that the longer solid
bar is for the back of the vehicle and the bar that’s on the hinge is gonna be in the
middle. So, what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna take
these straps. These are gonna go on that rearmost solid
bar, and we’re gonna take the smaller end and thread that over just
like that, same thing goes for the other side. Just like the front, we’re gonna go ahead
and slide these two together and get them installed on the pins. And we’re gonna start by pulling out that
cotter pin, and then this is gonna slide on like that. Throw another washer on the outside and then
reinstall the cotter pin. And as you guys probably could have expected,
we’re gonna do the same thing for the other side. Now, in the kit, you’re gonna get this really
nice roll of name-brand Velcro. Where this is going to install is right here
along our bulkhead. It’s got some adhesive on the back. It’s gonna span the entire length of this. So, what we’re gonna do is peel that back
and press it in place. Now, the instructions do say this adhesive
is gonna take a while to cure, 72 hours to be specific. So you just wanna be gentle with this for
the time being. Also, this is really tough stuff. So, in order to trim it to size, I’m gonna
have to break out the wire cutters here and give that a snip. So the next thing we’re gonna work on is our
actual top. This is gonna go over top of our frame. Right here, this is the front window. So this is gonna be pressed up against the
rear glass in your truck. What you wanna do, grab the buckles. You can see these slits right here. This is where they’re going to install. However, they’re not cut out of the box. So, go ahead and grab a razor blade. They give you exactly where that needs to
be cut, and then we’re gonna feed these through. And pull that all the way down until the buckle
is flush up against this line, same thing goes on the other side. Now, before we go anywhere while we’re still
here, I’m just gonna go ahead and thread these in and then unclip them so they’re loose for
later on. Now that we have those straps in place, you
can sort of mark-up where this is going to sit. I have it flipped inside out just so you guys
can see what’s going on up at the front, and then we’ll roll this back and do the rear
as well. These straps you want them fed down in between
the bed and the cab just like so, that little bit of Velcro behind it. And then basically all we’re going to do is
push that Velcro into place on the hook side. So that’s looking good. We can move up to our front bow, and all we’re
gonna do is snap this thing in place. So now with everything lined up and eyeballed
as best as we could here, I just unrolled that top. And what we’re gonna do is snap down the middle
and rear bow in the same manner. Now, one thing to mention here before you
snap down the rear bow. These elastic tie-downs, you wanna move them
all the way to the outside. Now we can attach the front to the rail, and
you can see this strip right here. This is basically gonna go under this hook. And push that back as far as they can go and
hit the other side as well. Now we’re gonna do the same thing at the rear. You can see right here this little plastic
loop is gonna meet up with this curved portion at the end of the side rail. So, pull down on the last bow
and slide that underneath. And as you guys probably could have guessed,
we’re gonna do the same thing on the opposite side as well. At this point, we can install our third brake
light. It’s got some adhesive right here to hold
it in place. And once you have it lined up where you want
it, you can also include some self-tapping screws to secure that. Now, as far as the wiring goes, you can run
this alongside. I’m just gonna undo one snap, throw it underneath,
and re-snap in place. So, for now, we have our third brake light
installed. We’re gonna pause on that. We’re gonna keep rolling with the install
and we’re gonna come back. Later on, we’ll show you exactly how that
gets wired up. Next thing we’re going to handle is our rear
window. There’s a hook at the top of this. It gotta slide in from the side and go all
the way across. The best place I’ve found to do this is sort
of from the side right here and not from the back. From the side just makes things a little bit
easier. And then on the side of that rear window,
you have some zippers. Those are pretty self-explanatory. We’re just gonna start at the top here and
zip those down. At the very end, just a hair of Velcro to
secure that in place. So the next thing we’re going to install is
gonna go right at the bottom of our rear window. This metal bar right here is going to be our
tailgate bar. Now, right now it is just a bar. I’m not gonna seal that well. This bolt seal that comes in the kit, this
is going to go along the bottom edge of that, and it’s gonna make a great contact to the
tailgate. And just like at the top, we’re basically
going to slide that into this basic hook at the bottom. It’s gonna go all the way across. Now, once you have that slid on, you wanna
get that mounted underneath this tab here, and then you can close the zips all the way
and velcro them up one last time, same thing on the other side. Then you can shut the tailgate. Last but not least, we have our windows. You can see those are gonna slide in at the
top with those J-hooks just like the rear window did, and we’ll start down here. On the bottom, you have another hook here. We’re just going to fold that plastic over
and flip it around and run down that seal. And that’s gonna give us all of our attention. So last but not least, our third brake light
wiring. And you can see there’s a little bit of an
issue here and that this is a universal kit. These wires are a little bit short. There’s also the problem of you need to be
able to roll this back. So this needs to be disconnected quickly. So what we’re gonna do is wire a quick disconnect
into our brake light here, and we’ll get that up and running. All it’s gonna take to unclip it to roll your
top back is to just one click, you’re done. And then this can fold right away. But first things first, let’s open up this
brake light, and I’ll show you what I’m talking about. It’ll be easier to see once I open this up. We’re gonna grab a 10-millimeter socket to
do so. The bolts we’re gonna remove is this one and
this very bottom one. And that will allow you to grab the taillight
and pull it off. This is the one we’re gonna focus on. This is the one for our brake light. Just to make things a little bit easier, I’m
just gonna disconnect the whole housing for now, and we can put that aside. So now that we have a clear shot at this middle
guy right here, we’re gonna take the utility knife and cut open that little shrouding there
just so we can work with this a little better. All right. It should be more than enough. I’m just gonna give that a little bit of electrical
tape. Now that we have that opened up, you can see
we’re dealing with three wires here. This blue one on the left, this is gonna be
our brake light, the green one is gonna be our running light, and this one over here,
this is gonna be our ground. Obviously, we’re not gonna be working with
the running light because this is a third brake light after all. So we’re just gonna take the wire cutters
and chop right through these two. Next up, wire strippers. They’re just gonna give us some meat to work
with. Now what we can do is roll those together. Now that we have something like that, we can
install our quick disconnects on this side, and then we’ll do the same thing on our new
wiring harness on the other side. There we have our plug with our quick disconnects
and our brake light still good to go. I’ll do my best to tuck in that back in there
for now, and we could work on our new harness. Now I’m just gonna install the male side of
those spade connectors on the two wires, and then we could wrap these through in the bed
of our truck. So we use purple for ground, and we’ll use
our yellow wire for positive. So, what we’re gonna do now is reinstall our
taillight. These are gonna come up through here like
that and wrap around. We’ll tape these down, and I’m gonna electrical
tape these up just to make everything look nice and clean as well. Now we’re gonna rebuild this whole area including
our taillight, which we’re gonna plug back in and bolt back down. Before we do, I just wanna talk about how
we’re gonna route these wires. So in our case, we’re gonna come out right
here, make a bend then come around like so. In your case, if you’re looking for a more
permanent solution and you’re doing this quick disconnect way, I drill a hole right here
and poke these through behind there just to come out right there. And then you can meet up like that with these
wires over here. And your quick disconnects will be right here. That’s the way I do it if this were my truck
if this were permanent, but since we’re shooting a video here, we’re just gonna take this route
and get them turned around right there. So now I’m just gonna go ahead and rebuild. So we’re just about ready to complete our
wiring. You can see we have two wires coming off of
our truck, negative and a positive, and we have three wires coming off of our third brake
light. Now, our black, that’s gonna be negative all
the time. That’s gonna go to purple. But our positive wires, we have a choice between
red, which is gonna be a third brake light flasher. So when you step on the brakes, this is gonna
cause your brakes to flash, at least the third brake light anyways. And then this one, this is gonna be a steady
continuous brake just like normal, just like a normal third brake light. Now, because we have this setup with our quick
disconnects, we’re gonna get three male spade connectors over here, two female spade connectors
over here. And that will allow you to jump back and forth
just by connecting a different wire, and you can let the other one dangle. And that basically allows you to swap over
at any time you want. We’re gonna get crimping and complete this
install. Now all that’s left for us to do is plug them
in, again, black to purple, and then we’ll go yellow to yellow. For now, again, if you do wanna swap over
to that flasher, it’d be as simple as just changing this to the red one. We’re gonna do just a tiny bit of backyard
wire measuring here, not courteous job I’ve ever done but should do it. Again, if this were my truck, I’d break out
the drill, pop a hole somewhere in this area, and have that poke out through like that. But in our case, you wanna make sure this
is clear to the tailgate, and that is all set. So now we’re gonna give it a test run. In this shot, you can see the continuous brake
light. That’s gonna be the yellow wire, and in this
shot, you can see the flasher. That’s gonna be the red wire. Guys, that’s gonna do it for my review and
install of the Bestop Supertop Bed Topper fitting all ’05 and newer Tacomas. As always, thanks for watching. Keep it right here at Extreme Terrain for
all things Tacoma.

1 thought on “Tacoma Bestop Supertop Soft Bed Topper (2005-2020) Review & Install”

  1. Shop this Bestop Supertop:

    🎞Subscribe for Daily Toyota Tacoma Videos:

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *